Scat Pack Mods - Exterior
Rear Camber/Toe & Front Camber/Caster Fix
After I purchased new tires for the Scat I took it in for an alignment. It wasn't until I got the invoice that I realize I just tossed $100 down the drain. Why? There is NO Camber/Caster adjustment for the front, No Camber adjustment for the rear, just a little toe adjustment for the rear and I went thru this with my 2010 Challenger (Doh - Homer).
So, I wanted to find out how bad the stock camber was and purchased a camber measurement tool. You can get these off eBay for under $20. They are just a fancy adjustable level with a magnet to attach it to the rotor.
Camber Gauge
Low and behold I had almost -3° negative camber on all 4 wheels with no way to adjust them. The only way to fix this for the rear is to swap out the Camber Arms and Toe links for on-car adjustable versions and for the front is to install adjustable upper A-arms. I went with BMR for the rear and SPC Performance for the fronts. BMR parts are made in the US and the rest is made in China.
Tools
You will need a good set of hand of metric hand tools. Th one most used is 18MM and it is usally not included in most kits. I have both SAE and Metric gear wrenches and box/open end wrenches.
You may need a set of SAE Service Wrenches to fit the adjustment nuts as they are 1" and bigger. But, never fear Harbor
Freight will save the day for about $60.
NOTE - I added DIY cheater bar for my Service Kit.
Lastly you will need some cut off tools that will fit into tight spaces.
Upper A-Arms
Swapping out the upper arms is a real PITA as you have to move and/or remove some parts, like part of the cowl and the overflow reservoir to get at the nuts that hold the A-Arms in. You also have to break the OE ball joint loose and remove the 3 strut retaining bolts to physically remove the upper A-Arm.
The Problem!
New Parts
Out with old
In with the new.
Rear Camber Arms
Rear Toe Links
Is all of this doable in your driveway? Yes, but it would be a real PITA. I have a 4 post lift and it took me and my SIL about 5 hours to do camber arms, toe links, and lower trailing arms.
The camber arms are not bad as once you have the tire off it's just a matter of accessing the bolts, removing the OEM arms, installing the after-market version, and setting the intial camber. I set mine at about -.5°.
The Toe Links would be a piece of cake if you didn't have to drop the cradle or cut off a bolt. It seems the idiots at Dodge installed the driver's side toe link bolt so it can't be removed as it hits the trunk. So, I just cut it off. Think twice before you cut it off as a replacement costs about $20.
Once you cut the bolt head off, just push the bolt through.
The offset toe link bolt.
Toe link bold part #.
Upper Control Arms & LowerTrailing Arms
I was able to score a set of BMR Upper & Lower Trailing arms from a forum member. The lower trailing arms are a piece of cake. The uppers have the same issue as the toe links, one bolt hits the frame only this time it is on the passenger's side. It’s either drop the cradle or cut the bolt. We ran out of daylight so to speak, so the uppers are for another day.
Upper Control Arms
NOTE - The upper control arms are not yet installed as they suffer from the same problem as the toe links, you have to cut a bolt head off. Only this time it is on the passengers side. Plus you MUST have a replacement bolt as the install re uses the OEM bolts.
Lower Trailing Arms
